The honest answer to this question is not a date on the calendar. It is a soil temperature: 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Everything else about timing follows from that one number.
Which is useful, because the most common mistake with elephant ears is planting the bulbs two or three weeks too early and losing them to rot before they ever sprout.
The Best Time to Plant Elephant Ear Bulbs
Outdoors: two to three weeks after your last frost date, once the soil has held at 65°F or warmer.
Indoors, for a head start: four to six weeks before your last frost date.
Frost dates vary a lot even within a single zone, so treat the table below as a starting point and look up the actual date for your town.
USDA zone
Typical last frost
Start indoors
Move outdoors
4 to 5
Mid to late May
Mid April
Early to mid June
6
Early May
Late March
Late May
7
Mid April
Mid March
Early to mid May
8
Late March
Late February
Mid to late April
9 to 11
Little to none
Not needed
February to March
Read it four inches down, mid-morning, three days running. You want 65 degrees Fahrenheit every time.
Why Soil Temperature Beats the Calendar
Elephant ear bulbs are slow starters. Even in good conditions they take three to eight weeks to break the surface, and a month of apparent nothing is completely normal.
In cold soil they do not sprout slowly. They do not sprout at all. The tuber sits there dormant, surrounded by damp soil, doing nothing but waiting, and a dormant bulb in cold wet ground is a bulb that is quietly rotting.
Here is the part that catches people out. A tuber planted in 60 degree soil will often emerge later than an identical one planted three weeks afterward into 70 degree soil, because the first one spent those three weeks sitting still. There is nothing to gain by rushing, and a healthy bulb to lose.
Checking is easy. Push a soil thermometer about four inches down, read it mid-morning, and do that three days in a row. You want 65°F or better every time, not once on an unusually warm afternoon.
Air temperature is a poor substitute. Soil warms far more slowly than air in spring, and a run of pleasant 75 degree days in April can sit on top of soil that is still in the fifties. This is also why freezing temperatures early in the season are more dangerous to a newly planted bulb than a late frost is to an established elephant ear plant.
How to Plant Elephant Ear Bulbs Indoors for a Head Start
If you are in zone 7 or colder, starting them indoors is genuinely worth it. It buys you four to six extra weeks of growth, which on a tropical plant grown entirely for the size of its foliage makes a visible difference by August.
Plant the bulb in a six to eight inch container of rich, well-draining soil with some organic matter worked in, put it somewhere consistently warm, and be careful about water. Bottom heat from a seedling mat speeds things up noticeably.
That water point is worth underlining, because it is where most indoor starts fail. A dormant bulb has no roots and no leaves, so it uses almost no water. Watering it on a weekly schedule the way you would a houseplant will rot it before it wakes up. Keep the soil barely damp until you see a sprout, then water normally. Our guide to starting elephant ear bulbs indoors covers the full process.
Keep the soil barely damp until a sprout appears. A dormant bulb uses almost no water.
How to Tell Which End of the Bulb Goes Up
This question comes up constantly, and it is not because people are careless. It is because elephant ear tubers genuinely do not have an obvious point the way a tulip bulb does. They often look like a lumpy potato with no clear orientation at all.
The corms genuinely have no obvious point, which is why this question comes up so often.
What to look for when you plant the bulb:
The top is the smoother end, usually with a small nub or bud, sometimes with the dried stub of last year’s stem still attached.
The bottom is rougher and flatter, often faintly ringed, and may have wiry remnants of old roots.
If you turn it over twice and still cannot tell, plant it on its side. The sprout senses gravity and will right itself, costing you perhaps a week. Planting it fully upside down costs considerably more, and given how ambiguous these tubers are, sideways is the better bet on a coin flip you are going to lose about half the time.
The rough, faintly ringed, flatter side with old root remnants is the bottom.
In zones 9 through 11, yes. Fall and winter planting works there, and the bulb will establish through the mild season and take off in spring.
In zone 8 and colder, no. A bulb planted in September or October sits in soil that is getting colder and wetter for months, which is precisely the condition it cannot survive. It will not get a head start on spring, because it will not be there in spring.
The one exception is fall planting in a container that you then keep indoors somewhere warm, which is really just indoor starting done unusually early.
When to Dig Up the Bulbs
The other half of the timing question, and it depends entirely on your zone.
Zones 8b through 11: leave them in the ground. Most Colocasia varieties die back to the ground over winter there and reemerge on their own once the soil warms. A layer of mulch helps in zone 8, where it is a closer call.
Zone 7 and colder: dig up the bulbs. The trigger is either the first light frost or nights consistently dropping below 40°F, whichever arrives first. Freezing temperatures turn the foliage to mush, and while that looks alarming, the tuber below ground is usually fine if you get it up promptly.
After lifting, brush the soil off and let the bulbs dry somewhere warm and airy for one to two weeks, then pack them in dry peat moss or wood shavings and store them somewhere dark at 50 to 60°F. Our guide to storing elephant ear bulbs over winter goes through it step by step.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I soak elephant ear bulbs before planting?
It is not necessary, and it carries some risk, since you are adding moisture to a tuber that is about to go into damp soil and has no roots to use it. If yours arrived noticeably shriveled, an hour or two in room-temperature water is plenty. Skip the overnight soak.
How late can you plant elephant ears?
You want at least two to three months of warm weather ahead of you, so late June is realistically the cutoff in most of the country. You can plant elephant ear bulbs later than that and they will grow, but they will not reach anything like full size before the season ends.
How do you prepare elephant ear bulbs for planting?
Very little preparation is needed. Check that the bulb is firm rather than soft or shriveled, brush off any packing material, and work compost or organic matter into the planting area. Firm tubers with a few dry papery patches are perfectly healthy. Soft spots are not.
How long do elephant ear bulbs take to sprout?
Three to eight weeks, and cooler soil pushes it toward the long end. This is a plant that rewards patience, and our guide on how long elephant ear bulbs take to sprout has the full timeline.
Can you grow elephant ear bulbs in containers?
Yes, and a container is the easiest way to grow elephant ears in a cold zone, because you can move the whole pot indoors before frost instead of digging anything up. Use a large container, keep the soil consistently moist through summer, and give it the same partial shade you would give a plant in the garden.
What if a late frost hits after I have planted?
If nothing has emerged, the bulb is insulated underground and will almost certainly be fine. If leaves are already up, cover them overnight with a sheet or a layer of mulch. Frost-damaged foliage looks dramatic but the plant regrows from the tuber.
The Short Version
Wait for the soil to reach 65°F, which lands two to three weeks after your last frost. Start bulbs indoors four to six weeks before that if you are in zone 7 or colder, and keep the soil barely damp until they sprout. If you cannot tell which end is up, lay the tuber on its side. Then wait, because a month of nothing happening is exactly what this plant does.
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